Canadian Historic Sites: Occasional Papers in Archaeology and History No. 20

The History of Fort Langley, 1827-96

by Mary K. Cullen

Appendix A. Report on Fort Langley, 1830
by Archibald McDonald.¹

The Langley district being perhaps less perfectly known to you than any other Section of the department, without going into an elaborate detail I hope do not unnecessarily occupy your attention for a few moments in giving you the best Idea, in the Shape of a Report of its situation and other circumstances as I am able to put together.

Boundary. — The district on it being first chalked out was to embrace that considerable tract of Country along the Coast from the South end of Puget Sound to the Northern extremity of the Gulf of Georgia including the Clalam Country and Vancouvers Island. Inland from the first mentioned point it was to divide the trade with the Columbia by a line due East to the head of the Piscahoes river; and another supposed line from the coast in the Chilcoton Country might be said to terminate its limits in that quarter. — In this case the back and Eastern boundary would be circumscribed by the lower part of New Caledonia and the Country from which Thompson's river and Okanakan derive their returns. A superficial glance over this immense space and conceiving its undisturbed possession naturally led to very high expectations in the way of returns; but the present state of the Coast Trade and the extraordinary inducement held out elsewhere to draw the Beaver out of the district, without alluding to the unproductive nature of much of the Country itself, will I presume in some degree account for the disappointment.

Navigable Rivers. — Over the space of Country thus described it is but fair to suppose that a number of Streams exist, none of them however, with the exception of one deserves particular notice as Navigable Rivers; as far up as tide water mark, and while the Country is flat many of them do indicate tolerable size, but soon contract and are lost in the Mountains that are in no instance many leagues from the Sea Shore. This is also the case with the two streams falling into the main river that have already, I believe, gained some distinction: the rivers of Pitt and Harrison, both in the N.W. bank. — The mouth of the former is about six Miles below this, the first reach in it presenting more the Character of a narrow Lake than a running Stream led no doubt to the mistaken idea of its magnitude. — The other to my own certain knowledge comes from a greater distance, and is the same we visited from Thompson's River in Autumn '27 by the name of Lilliwhit.

In its whole course however it is so bound up in perpetual Mountains as to afford but few advantages; we have been as far as the upper end of Harrison's Lake where the obstructed navigation begins, its junction with this river is about 40 miles up and near the same distance below Simpson's Falls [the rapids on the Fraser near Yale].

Of Fraser's River itself I shall say nothing that once interesting subject being now completely set at rest by the Governor's own observations. — However from the part I have had myself on a former occasion to ascertain the practicability of its being navigated, to shew no inconsistency in my information that I hope I may be allowed to refer to the 2nd & 4th Paragraphs of my Report of Sept. 1826 which I presume is exactly in accordance with what Governor Simpson and myself have since experienced; but that I was egregiously misinformed by the Natives as to the real state of the River below the Dalls whence I returned is very certain, although it was always my own conviction that the lowest possible state of the water was requisite to make any head way in those rivers.

Population. The Indian population in this part of the world is very great, and were it not for the continual variance among themselves, especially the Warlike Tribes, would have been extremely dangerous to a handful of whites. Beginning on the South side of De Fucas Straits — rounding the Sound and following the East Shore to the mouth of this river; then ascending it to the point where my return made on this head from Thompson's River in 1826/27 in that direction discontinued: from Simpson's Falls keeping the N.W. Bank again to the Sea — Coasting it to about Lat. 50 and then crossing over to the Island and following that shore until we again come to the Sts. the following general Abstract is the attempt we have made to arrive at something near the number of men inhabiting that space. vizt. [Editor's note: the format of the following table has been changed.]

4160 Indians tho' a great number would not be considered incredible were the number but better proportioned and it did occur to myself as rather curious that the 50 or 60 miles between the Falls and Forks of Thompson's River [and the Fraser] should accomodate nearly 1/3 of the whole. It is however the fact proved by the repeated examination of the Indians themselves and in particular the last mentioned chief on the 3rd division, who is mostly a resident here & whose acct. of the lower Indians we knew to be correct. — When Gov. Simpson & myself came down 2 years ago & when our speed gave them but little time to shew themselves, the number appeared uncommon, & the nature of the river & manner of living account for it. There is a perceptable difference between them and those of the Coast, & altho' they are perhaps fully as fond of property & of pilfering they have not I believe the same savage thirst for taking mans life. The Summcamus are the only Indians that came near us from the 2nd division; but the Skins of the four last Tribes came thro' the medium of Traders. — of those of the 5th the first Tribe only, and that in the Salmon Season but are no hunters. — Beyond the Nonowuss on one side the Channel & the Tchulhutts on the other are the formidable Yewkaltas that may be about 300 men, but armed and equipped in a superior style. All but the first and two last Tribes on the Island came this way in the summer season. The Tlalums we never see.

Establishment. List of Gentlemen and Men Attached to Fraser's River, with the Capacity and Family of each as follows, vizt.

By this List we shew that all our men have taken Women in this quarter — a measure once thought very impolitic nor do I affirm that in this condition they are preferable or perhaps equal to single men — yet I am happy to say that a year's experience does not forebode any frightful evil; besides, as may also be seen above, it has had the effect of reconciling them to the place and of removing the inconvenience and indeed the great uncertainty of being able to get them year after year replaced from the Columbia. — Provision for them they have none, save what they derive from the regular and ample allowance to themselves.

Expenditure of Provisions
Imported

(click on image for a PDF version)

The Article Flour is the only item under the head of European Provisions that may seem extravagant: nor indeed would we at all have had recourse to anything like the quantity had it not been on hand since the formation of the Establishment and become perfectly unfit for future use. — In time to come even with a hand mill, we shall be able to make Flour enough for ourselves: Indeed the 25 Bushels wheat raised last Season with the hoe would go a great way towards it now. — As for the Country Produce, the real support of the place, I maintain, procured as it is at the very door without encurring any extra expense, that nothing can surpass it in cheapness as will be seen hereafter.

The greater part of the Meat, Beaver and Wild Fowl we killed ourselves. Of the salt & salmon valued in this account more than 3/4 of the whole is now on hand; but the place itself still requires a considerable quantity before the fresh supply arrives. — When this business is regularly entered upon, of course the one Outfit must give credit to the other for such Stock, altho' the Plan no doubt will be to realize all the surplus before the close of the year.

State of Trade. The Beaver Trade at Fraser's River being of course the object to which we all look, I have the satisfaction to inform you that it continues on the increase, altho' in all probability still far short of expectations. — As is elsewhere remarked the returns of Fort Langley must now be considered as the proceeds of a very small portion of the extensive District originally projected. — To the Northward of Barrard's Canal the face of the Country is still more Mountainous than hereabouts and of consequence yields but few returns; the Southern Wing of the district tis true was always acknowledged rich in Beaver, but here the fatal effect of the existing opposition is particularly felt. Of the numerous and large tribes represented in another page and upon whose hunts special reliance was placed in the contemplated trade of Fraser's River, not the face of an Indian have we seen from the Southward of the Ossaak for the last 12 months, nor indeed can it be expected that we will while such liberal terms are held out to them at home. — The American was in the Sound in April and on his 2nd visit in the month of July came within a very short distance of Point Roberts. There however, from the shortness of his stay and from the few furs being previously got in, I am satisfied he did not collect many Skins. This however will not always be the case; for, altho' our Indians are sufficiently fond of our Establishment and of our own indulgent treatment towards them (when they merit no worse) others with a Vessel for any time in or near the Mouth of the River, will always get Beaver from them. — From our old Tariff of 4 or 4-1/2 we came down to 2, 2-1/2 & 3 Skins according to circumstance, but as the Trade elsewhere is carried on, to continue at even the lowest of these Prices will be impossible, to have given way to a greater stretch of liberality last year however was by no means sanctioned by our Outfit. — When we made out our requisition our total ignorance of the Opposition already set up in the Country did not enable us to make that ample allowance to meet it which the nature of the Trade subsequently required, and the deficiency did not happen to be made up at the Depot hence the necessity there was of keeping up the Tariff at the Fort, and our total inability to annoy our rivals in the Sound. — As it is including 50 had from the Cadboro', and with the help of the few Woollens I was able to take across the Cowlitz Portage from the Columbia in the fall, we have now little more than 100 Blankets to go upon, until the arrival of the Summer Outfit from England. — Under all these circumstances, I trust that the result of the year's trade just closed will not appear unsatisfactory, and that with suitable means we shall be able to repeat it. — Here we exhibit a comparative view of the returns of the three years, vizt.

Improvements suggested. Fort Langley, am aware, has the name of being extravagantly kept up, and perhaps a Clerk and 12 men the number lately proposed is as great a Complement as is generally allowed for the same returns; but if we satisfactorily shew that the surplus three men in addition to the greater security to the Establishment can more than pay their own Wages occasionally, hunting Beaver and other merchantable employment at the Fort, I flatter myself that the propriety of keeping 15 men will appear sufficiently desirable, and especially when it can be done without calling upon Columbia for them. — Hitherto the little Beaver hunt we made here was by mere starts and jumps in dead of winter, when we thought ourselves and the hunters in security; but now that we have acquired a little better knowledge of the country and some confidence in ourselves among the Natives that we are accustomed to see, I think a small Trapping Party regularly employed in this way would pay well: and to effect this purpose with the greatest safety in our power to both parties, would be, towards the middle of October, when the Indians are out of the River, to equip 8 good hands that would coast it to the Southward until they came to the Whullummy or Ossaak River — perhaps 80 miles from here — which as far as we can judge admits of Canoe going for some distance up, and near it source to hunt the Beaver, to return at the end of three months, and afterwards to be employed nearer home as they are at present until the Natives again begin to assemble. — If the Establishment is not curtailed a Gentlemen could be sent with this Party on their first setting out. — So confident are we of something worth while being in that quarter, that last month I sent a Gentleman and six men across Land to see the River and converse with the Natives, whom we know to be industrious, and whose Beaver find their way to the Fort thro' the medium of the Quaitlins. — They are but few in number and wholly at the mercy of the Scatchads on one hand, and of our Indians here on the other. — Of the two I believe ours pay them the best and generally get the Skins: the others however are not to be outdone in times like the present and what they fall short of in property they make up in terror and exemplary punishment and I am sorry to say that they have had recourse to this most oppressive measure in a marked degree not long ago. When I sent Mr. Annance I thought it possible to be able to ascend the River with a Craft, and to fix a small trading house in the back Country ensuing season that might be the means of keeping the bulk of the Skins found among the Scadchats and others from reaching the Coast at all, and this to be done under the protection of the proposed Trapping Party, but our people unable to ascend the River, and the Ossaacks entirely disappearing in consequence of the late trouble from those of the Coast returned rather suddenly; and any thing we now do in this way will altogether depend upon circumstances, and the manner in which the opposition is directed to be carried on in the Sound itself. The returns of this year includes 85 Skins killed by our own people, and placed to their respective credits at the rate of 5/ — per skin; and as such they are estimated on the other side with the General Returns.

Among other returns that could be made from this place, last fall we had 3000 feet of Plank, and 10m. Cedar Shingles ready for Shipment: the latter I should suppose would answer well, but the Boards with mere manual force can hardly be made worth the trouble when Machinery is in competition, should the demand for Timber continue we thought a Saw Mill here also an object of attention, but without exposing ourselves at too great a distance, the improbability of finding a good Seat where wood is in abundance is a great objection. — There is however one strong enducement in this vicinity to make an effort; the occasional Bluffs of American White Pine (Pin Blanc) that is to be met with, & which I believe is no wise common on the W. side of the Rocky Mountains.

With respect to the Salmon, in case our Journal cannot conveniently be consulted with this, the best idea of what is, and might be done in that way, must be devised from the following Statement.

Statement of Salmon Trade.
Fort Langley from 10th to 20 Aug. 1829

In addition to this Statement I have to observe that instead of awaiting the appearance here of the Salmon till the 10th or 15th of August, a good Stock might be procured near the Falls at least fifteen days earlier; as could well be inferred from what our own people saw when on a short trip up that way last July while at the Fort with six men I had the protection of the Cadboro. It may not be amiss also to remark that I think a detached salting camp within a very few miles of the Establishment during the last 20 days of August would succeed well, without being exposed to imminent danger so that by those means we could secure a period of 55 or 60 days instead of 20. — Ample time judging from last years experience to procure 500 Barrels of Salmon. — To conclude with this subject I must inform that we made several attempts ourselves last summer with the Seine & Hand Scoop net but our success by no means proved that we could do without Indian Trade, nor does ever this appear to me a source of great disappointment as in years of scarcity the best regulated fishery of our own would miscarry while in years of plenty such as last the expense in trade would hardly exceed the very cost of Lines and Twine.

State of Establishment

For the nature of all the Business that is likely to be carried on here the Fort is now sufficiently well arranged. To finish the Buildings inside, a good spacious store of 55 feet long and a large Coopers shop are erected both indispensible should anything extensive be undertaken in the way of fish curing. — The man who acted as Carpenter and the only man Unengaged, we have kept at Cooper Work for the last six weeks, assisted by another; but has not produced in that time above 30 of 25 Galls. not too well finished — they are made of the Pin Blanc having no oak or any other hard wood at hand — were two of our men good Coopers so much the better.

As to the farm little can be said of it. All our operations that way being confined to the Hoe the elevated ground near the Fort being already exhausted did not yield us above 25 Bushels Wheat 20 of Peas & 10 of Barley. — The little rich alluvial soil there is would have done better but here again the summer flush did considerable damage and it was only with the help of seed put in the ground first week in July that we were able to secure about 1200 Kegs Potatoes. For the seed of this Spring we have taken other precautions — of Kitchen Garden I can say nothing the seed of last year not coming to hand before middle of July.

Should the Trapping party be disapproved of tis my intention to dispense with one of the Gentlemen; yet, the two would greatly add to our security during the Salmon operations & if it so happens that the contemplated Establishment on north end of Cowlitz Portage is carried on not only could the extra Clerk but a few Hands also have been sent thither anytime after the middle of October & answer all purposes to be here again by the beginning of July.

I have the honor to be with great respect Gentlemen — Your very obed. Servant

(Signed) Arch. McDonald,
Chief Trader