Canadian Historic Sites: Occasional Papers in Archaeology and History No. 20

The History of Fort Langley, 1827-96

by Mary K. Cullen

The Establishment of Fort Langley

Three years after his first visit to the Fraser River, McMillan (now chief factor) returned to construct the establishment that, it was hoped, would serve as western headquarters of the Hudson's Bay Company. He was accompanied by François Noël Annance, clerk; Louis Sata Karata, an Iroquois, and Peeopeeoh, a Hawaiian, all of the former expedition. With him as well were two other clerks, Donald Manson and George Barnston, and 19 workmen including carpenters, cooks, blacksmiths and hunters.¹ The party of 25 was transported up the Fraser by the schooner Cadboro² and arrived at the site of the future Fort Langley on 29 July 1827.

The journey from Fort Vancouver took slightly over a month. Leaving the fort on 27 June, the expedition proceeded in two canoes by way of the Columbia and Cowlitz rivers to Puget Sound. On 4 July they reached Port Orchard, the place appointed to meet the schooner. When three days passed and the vessel had made no appearance, McMillan decided to continue on toward Admiralty Inlet. There, on 11 July, they met the Cadboro and embarked on the Fraser.³ Several unsuccessful attempts were made to enter the river. For a time the vessel was unable to find a deep channel; then, having found one, it dragged anchor and drifted out to sea during the night. The following day entrance was again attempted; the ship grounded but without damage. Finally, after many delays, the expedition entered the mouth of the river on 22 July, in 49°5' north latitude.⁴

Headway up the river was made very slowly and with much deliberation. Near Lulu Island the vessel passed three Cowitchan villages with approximately fifteen hundred inhabitants.⁵ On 24 July the party saw two trees marked "HBC," a landmark left by the previous expedition of 1824. The Cadboro reached a point opposite the Pitt River that evening and anchored later above "Pim island."⁶ A "tolerably good situation for a fort"⁷ existed on the south side of the river, but McMillan hoped to find a better location and the vessel continued upstream. Three days later a site was selected some miles above the Salmon River⁸ and orders were given to warp the ship to her destination. Arriving there about noon on 28 July, the Cadboro found it impossible to get within 300 yards of the shore because of the "shoalness of the water."⁹ Since it was necessary to get the vessel near the fort site, both to cover the operations of the builders and to facilitate the discharge of cargo, the vessel was allowed to drift down the Fraser to just below the junction of the Salmon River.¹⁰ Here on 30 July preparations were begun for erecting the fort which was destined to play a critical role in extending and consolidating British trade on the Pacific coast.

Admittedly, the motley crew which disembarked from the Cadboro conveyed scant evidence of such an important mission. In the course of the month's journey, the total work force of 25 had been reduced by a quarter, five of the men being incapacitated by severe gonorrhea and another, Vincent, "suffering dreadfully from Venereal."¹¹ Not only manpower was crippled; the best of the horses had died on the passage and the remaining three were so weak when landed that they were unable to render any substantial assistance.¹² McMillan nevertheless was determined to muster his forces and on 1 August the remaining 19 men began to clear the ground for Fort Langley.¹³

The task was neither rapid nor easy. One of the biggest obstacles to the small work force was the great density and size of the timber. The forest on the bank of the river was almost impenetrable, with many of the trees measuring three fathoms in circumference and upwards of 200 feet high.¹⁴ To make matters worse the ground was completely covered with "thick underwood, interwoven with Brambles and Briars."¹⁵ Fires kindled to consume the cuttings of timber that had been felled quickly communicated with this surrounding bush. On one occasion the site was so completely enveloped in flame and clouds of smoke that "it was with great difficulty that the People succeeded in getting the Conflagration checked."¹⁶

Another source of interference to the building was the various Indian tribes that passed in continued succession upstream on their annual migration to the salmon fishery. Curiosity prompted much of the native population to make a personal investigation of white activity. McMillan attempted to trade, but more than once pilfering by the natives compelled him to order everyone off the premises.¹⁷ Some fear was entertained that the Indians actually meant serious harm. Before the expedition landed, reports circulated that the natives planned to annihilate the whole party as soon as it came ashore.¹⁸ Again it was believed that some of the fires had been set by the Indians with the intention of forcing the Company to abandon the establishment.¹⁹

Considering these obstacles, it was with some justification that McMillan dryly concluded, "the country here is very unfavorable for hurry in building Forts."²⁰ In a letter to McLoughlin dated 15 September 1827, he summarized the circumstances which continued to retard progress. He suggested:

Suppose yourself beginning to establish within a mile of Fort George with a few sickly Canadians, where the wood growsth [sic] that a Man takes a day to cut down a tree perhaps not to be had within half a mile of you and then must be sawn before you can get them [sic] dragged to the place, and to this Indians without number and you will have some Idea of our situation.²¹

5 The schooner Cadboro, 72 tons, one of the Hudson's Bay Company's coastal fleet, 1824-61. (Hudson's Bay Company Archives)

6 Fort Langley, 1827, showing McMillan's 1824 journey. (click on image for a PDF version) (Map by S. Epps.)

Despite annoyances, Fort Langley steadily took shape. Within a week of arrival the expedition had prepared materials for a bastion and cut pickets for the fort walls. On 11 August the bastion was nearly at its height and two men were sent to raise cedar bark for the roof.²² So much bark was required that it was soon found convenient to purchase it from the Indians in trade for buttons, rings and other articles.²³ By Monday, 20 August, most of the picketing had been cut and hauled to the site and the following day four men began digging a trench three feet deep for the palisades.²⁴ A second bastion was finished on 31 August and a week later, on 8 September 1827, McMillan reported that "the picketing of the Fort was completed and the Gates hung."²⁵ The rectangle inside was 40 by 45 yards; the palisade was 4 to 5 inches thick and 15 feet high. The two bastions, each 12 feet square, were built of 8-inch logs and had lower and upper floors, the latter being occupied by artillery.²⁶ The Indians had already begun to conjecture for what purpose the ports and loopholes were intended²⁷ and "the Tout Ensemble made a formidable enough appearance," especially in the eyes of those who had seen nothing of the kind before.²⁸

With enclosure secure, the fort was sufficiently safe for the Cadboro to retire. Yet before the vessel could proceed on a trading excursion north, it was necessary to build a storehouse for the Fort Langley outfit. The structure was completed on 14 September and immediately stocked with the provisions, tools and trading goods for the year.²⁹ On the morning of 18 September, under a salute of three guns from the newly built bastions, the Cadboro sailed slowly down the river, leaving McMillan and 14 men to complete living arrangements and commence business.³⁰

It had taken six weeks to construct a wall of safety, but another month was to elapse before the post assumed some comfort. The rude bark shelters which the Company had used as dwellings were now removed to make room for more permanent quarters.³¹ The outside shell of the main dwelling was finished on 22 September and promised to make a "snug and comfortable" abode. It measured 30 feet long by 15 feet wide and was divided into two rooms, each provided with a fireplace and two windows.³² By 19 October the houses for the men were nearly completed and the garrison was again in the woods squaring timber for other structures.³³ Although building continued throughout the winter, the completion of Fort Langley was officially recognized on 26 November. That afternoon a flagstaff was erected in the southeast corner of the fort; "Mr. Annance officiated in baptizing the establishment and the men were regaled in celebration of the event."³⁴

Life at Langley was similar in many respects to other Hudson's Bay Company posts. The men were engaged at a fixed salary on one- or two-year contracts and were responsible to the officer in charge of the establishment. Laziness, unruliness and disobedience were not tolerated, transgressors being promptly flogged or put in irons.³⁵ There were no white women, but the men took Indian wives, a practice which reconciled them to wilderness life and also helped foster alliances favourable to trade. Numerous entries in the Fort Langley journal indicate that the company took full advantage of this custom. On one occasion when an Indian arrived with still more women for the accommodation of the fort, McMillan concluded that this commerce had begun to supersede the beaver trade and "the whole concern was ordered off."³⁶

Ample resources for rations enabled the garrison "to live pretty well."³⁷ A small start of farming was made and in the fall of 1828 the first crop of potatoes yielded 2,010 bushels.³⁸ Sturgeon could be had at times; there were some deer and wild berries were abundant.³⁹ But the mainstay of the fort was salmon. During the month of August fresh salmon was supplied by the Indians on such advantageous terms that McMillan remarked, "had we salt we might cure any quantity without moving from the Fort, and as reasonable a rate as the same can be procured anywhere else."⁴⁰ For winter use enough dried salmon was bought from the natives "to feed all the people of Rupert's Land."⁴¹

Fort Langley's raison d'être, of course, was the prosecution of the fur trade. From August 1827 to February 1828 the returns of the establishment amounted to 938 beaver and 268 otter.⁴² It was an unflattering result and while little more might have been expected in so short a period, there were other fundamental reasons for what McMillan considered an unsuccessful season.

In the first place, the competition of American traders had created a climate in which Fort Langley was unable to maintain the uniform standard of trade.⁴³ Thus McMillan confided to his superintendent,

In consequence of the Americans having visited the Straits last Spring we found it impossible to procure Skins in that quarter except at the same rate at which these people had Carried on their Trade, which will be a matter for your serious consideration, and a point on which I would wish to be made acquainted with when I next hear from you.⁴⁴

Explaining the situation in greater detail, the chief factor added,

the Indians about here laugh at us when we ask them five skins for a Blanket, and first on our arrival they all took their skins back, now we begin to get a few at the rate of 4-1/2 beaver for a 2-1/2 pt. Blanket. The Americans sold them 2 yards of fine thick blue duffle for 2 skins which is far finer than our duffle and nearly double the size of our Blankets, they must have sold a large quantity as all the Indians of the Gulf are supplied with that article, and should they visit once more the Sound our Trade is dished for a few years.⁴⁵

While Fort Langley was thus learning how to win the confidence of the Pacific Indians and to undermine its American competitors, Simpson was undertaking his second journey of inspection from Hudson Bay to the Pacific Coast. He was accompanied by Chief Trader Archibald McDonald, designated to replace McMillan in charge of Fort Langley, and by Dr. Richard J. Hamlyn, the incumbent medical officer at Fort Vancouver.⁵⁵ Leaving York Factory on 12 July 1828,⁵⁶ the party took just two months to reach Stuart Lake, one of the sources of the Fraser River and the site of the district headquarters of New Caledonia.⁵⁷ It was Simpson's first visit to New Caledonia and he was gratified to find that many steps had already been taken to implement his recommendations of 1824. Accordingly, for purposes of supply the district was now attached to the Columbia,

the mode of transport being from Fort Vancouver to Okanagan by Boats, from Okanagan to Alexandria by Horses, from Alexandria to Stewarts Lake by North Canoes, and From Stewart's Lake to the outposts by a variety of conveyances, vizt., large and small canoes, Horses, Dog Sleds and Men's backs.⁵⁸

To reduce the costs of this circuitous route the governor still felt the Fraser River would provide the most efficient transportation and he therefore determined to ascertain, once and for all, the navigability of that river. In the course of his journey from New Caledonia to the mouth of the Fraser he would make the final decision on whether Fort Langley should become the principal depot of the Pacific Northwest.

The governor's party set out from Stuart Lake on 24 September and, descending the Fraser about 300 miles, arrived at Fort Alexandria three days later.⁵⁹ This part of the navigation was "safe and tolerably good, the current Strong and abundance of Water, with many short rapids, but none of them dangerous."⁶⁰ In order to examine the possible subsidiary route by means of the Thompson River as well as the Fraser itself, the party was now divided into two. James Murray Yale with 14 men and two canoes was to continue along the main stream to the forks of the Fraser and Thompson rivers; Simpson, with McDonald, Hamlyn and five men, proceeded across land to Kamloops and thence along the Thompson to the Fraser.⁶¹

The Thompson the governor found "to be exceedingly dangerous"⁶² if not impassable. From Kamloops Lake to its junction with the Fraser, the river was an increasing succession of violent rapids and dalles.⁶³ Most of these the contingent managed to shoot, but in one of the last rapids, McDonald recorded, "we were nearly swamped, for in three swells we were full to the thafts, and the danger was increased by the unavoidable necessity of running over a strong whirlpool while the boat was in this unmanageable state."⁶⁴ "Indeed," Simpson complained, "there was no comfort in the whole passage of this turbulent River, as the continual plunging from one Rapid into another kept us as wet, as if we dragged through them."⁶⁵ In this damp state the governor's party reached the forks on the morning of 8 October where they met Yale and his men encamped with a large body of Indians awaiting their arrival.⁶⁶

Yale's report on the middle part of the Fraser was more encouraging. He had completed nearly 300 miles from Fort Alexandria travelling smoothly through a narrow channel and rapid current, and making no more than three portages totalling less than half a mile.⁶⁷ This information was highly satisfactory to Simpson for it meant that nearly three quarters of the Fraser fully answered his hopes. It now became necessary to examine the remaining fourth of the river where, it was apprehended, greater difficulties might be encountered.⁶⁸

The suspicion was correct for "almost immediately on starting the character and appearance of the navigation became totally changed."⁶⁹ McDonald describes this part of the river in some detail, but Simpson's journal is probably more vivid. Excitedly the governor wrote,

The banks now erected themselves, into perpendicular Mountains of Rock from the Waters edge, the tops enveloped in clouds, and the lower parts dismal and rugged in the extreme; the descent of the Stream very rapid, the reaches short, and at the close of many of them, the Rocks... overhanging the foaming Waters, pent up, to from 20 to 30 yds. wide, running with immense velocity and momentarily threatening to sweep us to destruction. In many places, there was no possibility of Landing to examine the dangers to which we approached, so that we were frequently, hurried into Rapids before we could ascertain how they ought to be taken, through which the craft shot like the flight of an Arrow, into deep whirlpools which seemed to sport in twirling us about, and passing us from one to another, until their strength became exhausted by the pressure of the Stream, and leaving their water logged craft in a sinking state.⁷⁰

In this manner the greater part of two days was occupied, two days during which Simpson's cherished idea for transportation on the Pacific Slope was plainly and unequivocally condemned. Scarcely 100 miles from the mouth of the river the governor was forced to conclude that "Frazers River, can no longer be thought of as a practicable communication with the interior."⁷¹ Regretfully he informed the governor and committee,

it was never wholly passed by water before, and in all probability never will again.... altho we ran all the Rapids in safety, being perfectly light, and having three of the most skilful Bowsmen in the country, whose skill however was of little avail at times, I should consider the passage down, to be certain Death, in nine attempts out of Ten. I shall therefore no longer talk of it as a navigable stream, altho for years past I had flattered myself with the idea, that the loss of the Columbia would in reality be of very little consequence to the Honble. Coys, interests on this side of the Continent; but to which I now, with much concern find, it would be ruinous unless we can fall upon some other practicable route.⁷²

A frank and disarming admission, Simpson's conclusion was to have a profound influence on the future course of Pacific development and the role of Fort Langley in particular.

About 8:00 p.m. on 10 October 1828 the men on watch at the new fort reported canoes and singing up the Fraser and in a few moments McMillan and his staff welcomed their governor.⁷³ It was a happy occasion and the little post was not only anxious but also able to provide the comfort and repose so hardly earned by the governor and his fellow travellers. In addition to the main dwelling house, men's quarters and store which had been completed the previous fall, there were now two other buildings; one a good dwelling house with an excellent cellar, a spacious garret and two well-finished chimneys, the other a low building with two square rooms, a fireplace in each and an adjoining kitchen made of slab.⁷⁴ A well-stocked larder enhanced the snugness of the accommodation. Outside the fort there were three fields of potatoes with 30 bushels planted in each; inside, the provision shed exclusive of the table stores was furnished with "three thousand dried salmon, sixteen tierces salted ditto, thirty six cwt. flour, two cwt. grease, and thirty bushels salt."⁷⁵

Simpson was delighted with his reception at Fort Langley and the respectable footing on which the establishment had been placed in so short a time. He commended the efforts the post had made to gain the confidence of the local Indians⁷⁶ and its virtual independence of imported provisions.⁷⁷ Though his journey down the Fraser had proved that Fort Langley could not serve as the principal depot, Simpson considered the new fort could fully answer its second object which was to form an important adjunct of the coasting trade.⁷⁸ This role was projected in this dispatch to the governor and committee, which stated:

I am in hopes this Post will become a valuable acquisition to the Business, and that in co-operation with the Vessel to be employed in transporting its outfits and returns, will secure the Trade of the Straits of St. Jean de Fucca and inland of Vancouvers Island, which has hitherto fallen into the hands of the Americans.⁷⁹