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Canadian Historic Sites: Occasional Papers in Archaeology and History No. 7
Archaeological Explorations at Signal Hill, Newfoundland, 1965-1966
by Edward B. Jelks
Introduction
During the summers of 1965 and 1966 several areas within the boundaries
of Signal Hill National Historic Park, St. John's, Newfoundland, were
explored archaeologically in order to determine what, if any, material
remains might have survived of the military installations that formerly
occupied the hill. Work was concentrated in three areas, the Queen's
Battery, where cannon protected the entrance to St. John's harbour from
the 1790s until the 1860s or thereabouts; Lady's Lookout, one of the
highest spots on the hill where an observation post was maintained from
the mid-18th till the mid-19th century, and an area between Signal Hill
and Gibbet Hill on which the new Interpretation Centre was subsequently
built. Purposes of the excavations were: (1) preconstruction exploration
of the Interpretation Centre area to ensure that no important
archaeological remains were endangered by construction; (2) appraisal of the
developmental potential of Lady's Lookout and the Queen's Battery for
interpretation to park visitors, and (3) recovery of artifacts and other
data of general value to archaeological studies of British colonial
sites.
Nothing of consequence was found in the Interpretation Centre area, but
significant finds were made at both the Queen's Battery and Lady's
Lookout. This report describes the geologic and cultural deposits at
each area; provides a description of each major building, building
foundation, or other structure excavated; describes and enumerates the
artifacts found, and gives the provenience of the artifacts. The
concluding section is a summation of the finds and their
significance.
Finds were recorded by the standard system of operations,
suboperations, and lots customarily employed for archaeological field
work by the National Sites Service, Department of Indian Affairs and
Northern Development. In addition, buildings and other structures were
numbered individually (structures 1, 2, 3, and so on), even though a
single structure might embrace a number of different operations.
Specific spots within the park were located in terms of coordinate
distances in the cardinal directions from an arbitrarily selected base
point. All measurements were in feet and tenths of feet.
The Hill
Beginning north-northeast of St. John's at Torbay and running south
is a chain of towering hills that fronts the Atlantic for a distance of
some nine or ten miles (Fig. 3). In order from north to south, the chain
comprises the White Hills, Signal Hill, and the South Side Hillsa
rocky triumvirate that presents a sheer, rugged face to the pounding
surf. Nestling behind the hills in a comfortable sheltered position is
St. John's harbour, an elongated embayment of deep water that connects
with the Atlantic through a narrow passage leading off one end (Figs. 1,
2). This passage, known as the Narrows, separates Signal Hill from the
South Side Hills.
1 Aerial photograph of Signal Hill, view looking southwest. Atlantic
Ocean at lower left: St. John's at upper right; mouth of the Narrows at
left centre.
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2 Aerial photograph of St. John's (lower left), Signal Hill
(upper centre), and St. John's harbour (right).
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The top of Signal Hill proper consists of a narrow ridge aligned
north-northeast and south-southwest (Figs. 1, 3). On the seaward side,
the face of the ridge descends abruptly to a deep trough, Ross' Valley,
which parallels the ridge several hundred feet below. On the land-ward
side, the terrain slopes downward less steeply to George's Pond. The
highest point on the hillmore than 500 ft. above sea levelis
at the north end of the ridge in the area known as Lady's Lookout. From
that point the surface of the ridge steps down in a series of small
plateaus for a lateral distance of perhaps a thousand feet, then drops
steeply down to the Narrows. Bordering the north edge of the Narrows is
a precipitous cliff running westward from the south end of the main
ridge at a lower elevation. The Queen's Battery was situated on top of
that cliff at a spot commanding both the Narrows and the harbour (Fig.
11). Gibbet Hill, a small eminence, lies west of the Queen's Battery
area, across the swale in which the new Interpretation Centre is
located.
3 Map of Signal Hill and vicinity (based
on Army Survey Establishment, R.C.E., 3rd ed., 1959).
(click on image for a PDF version)
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4 Historical base map, showing approximate
location of documented buildings.
(click on image for a PDF version)
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The bedrock at Signal Hill is of the Signal Hill Formation, Cabot Group
(Rose 1952:22-7). The age is not known with certainty as fossils are
absent, but because of its stratigraphic position Rose considers it of
Precambrian age, possibly late Proterozoic.
There are three main members of the Signal Hill Formation: "a grey
or greenish grey to green sandstone with intercalations of black
argillite and slate near the base; a reddish to reddish brown
feldspathic sandstone, with interbeds of reddish slate and argillite;
and a reddish to reddish brown conglomerate with reddish sandstone and
slate interbeds....
The Signal Hill formation is well bedded in the main, and
cross-bedded and ripple-marked in places....In general the formation is
broadly folded; beds are overturned to the east in a few places, steeply
dipping in many, and gently dipping in a few...Many faults intersect the
rocks, and an inherent rhombohedral joint system is very well developed
locally....
There is good evidence that the Torbay area was heavily glaciated
during Pleistocene times by ice moving radially seaward from the central
part of Avalon Peninsula. Considerable thickness of relatively
unweathered glacial debris of local origin, including erratics 20 feet
in diameter, are common. Glacial markingsstriae, grooves, rock
polish, and chattermarksare abundant and especially well preserved
beneath the mantle, and occur even on the tops of the highest hills.
They indicate that the direction of ice movement from Cape St. Francis
to St. John's was, in general, to the east-northeast and from St. John's
to Aquaforte, slightly south of east, with minor variations....
(Rose 1952: 25, 26, 7).
Striations and polish produced by glaciers were noted at several places
on Signal Hill during the archaeological explorations (Fig. 5).
5 Exposed bedrock in lower Queen's Battery, showing striations produced
by glaciers.
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History*
*Based on Prowse (1895), Ingram (1964). and Webber (n. d.).
The wealth of protein food readily available on the Grand Banks was
being exploited by European fishermen from several countries by the
early 16th century, or even possibly in the late 15th century. From the
beginning, Grand Banks fishermen sought shelter in the magnificent
harbour at St. John's, and some of them built temporary shacks along the
shore.
Little is known about the early years of St. John's but by 1760 it
had attained a permanent population estimated at 1,100 persons and
contained about 300 houses. The seasonal influx of fishermen swelled
the population to 10,000 in the summers. At the northeastern edge of
town stood Fort William (established shortly before 1700)its
defences poorly kept, its soldiers inadequately armedoverlooked
by the commanding height of Signal Hill. Despite its obviously
strategic importance to the security of Fort William, Signal Hill had no
fortifications at all in the mid-18th century. Nevertheless, the hill's
value as a lookout station was recognized by 1750 or earlier. From the
main ridge, ships approaching the Narrows from any direction could be
seen miles away. When one appeared, the lookout stationed there ran
flags up the signal tower to alert Fort William that friend or foe, as
the case might be, was approaching (Richardson 1962).
In June, 1762, during the Seven Years' War, a French expeditionary
force appeared at St. John's, and Fort William was surrendered without
resistance. The French captured a number of other towns in Newfoundland
at the same time. A British force under the command of Colonel William
Amherst was speedily organized and dispatched to recapture the fort.
Staffed mainly with troops from New York and Nova Scotia, Amherst's
force stormed a small French detachment on Signal Hill on the night of
15 September 1762 and captured the hill. Positioning guns on Signal Hill
and Gibbet Hill, Amherst began to bombard the fort, and two days later
the French surrendered.
Thus went the Battle of Signal Hill, the last land engagement of the
Seven Years' War. But even after the battle had demonstrated
unequivocally that control of Signal Hill was the key to the defence of
Fort William and St. John's, no effort was made to fortify the hill
until more than 30 years later. Finally, however, in 1795, a blockhouse
was erected in the Lady's Lookout area, and over the following 50 or 60
years, plans for extensive fortifications on Signal Hill were
alternately drafted, discarded and revised, construction was begun then
abandoned, but the plans were never brought to completion. At one time
it was planned to make an impregnable keep out of the hill, to which
beleaguered troops from Fort William could retreat if need be. To that
end, a start was made on scaling the cliffs to make them vertical all
the way around Lady's Lookout. But most of the plans came to naught,
which perhaps was just as well, for no engagements were fought at the
hill after 1762.
During Signal Hill's period of greatest activity1795 to the
mid-19th centurythree main batteries were maintained most of the
time: the Queen's Battery, the Duke of York's Battery, and North Point
Battery. The historical record is vague as to when the batteries and
soldiers were finally withdrawn from the hill; probably it was in the
1860s.
Cabot Tower was erected in 1898 and, perpetuating tradition, has
continued to be used as a lookout station up to the present day.
Temporary buildings and gun positions were installed on Signal Hill
during both World War I and World War II. Two Quonset huts erected
during World War II are still in use for storage at the park.
In 1958 the hill and its environs became Signal Hill National Historic
Park.
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